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#1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: in your pocket, stealing all your change
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The issue with low-TL armor weights is well adressed on these boards, specially metal armor, I've participated on several of the discussions.
Gathering from here and there I was able to create a table featuring suits of armor close to what I believe are historical weights, but a bit of it is still guesswork. Particularly, I'm in the dark about the weights of head, feet and hand armor. Debates seem to have skipped this entirely and I wasn't able to find any sources with enough information to rely on for even an educated guess. I know a bunch of you are really into historical stuff, Dan and Anthony come to mind, but others as well. Currently, I've extrapolated minor ajustments from the other ajustments to metal armor, but there are some differences. For instance, I'm under the impression that the published GURPS TL1-4 armors are overweight from lack of historical information at the time and because they were based on immitation pieces (renaissance fair stuff, enthusiast blacksmith work, etc...) and not as expertly built as actual belic examples of the time. But, for helmets, pot-helms, etc... there probably isn't a lot of innacuracy (to my mind), I mean there's much you can go wrong with a barrel-helm... So are the head-armor weights closer to historical data available or are the head, feet and hand armor available just as overweight as the rest of the armor in GURPS? (P.s.: if anyone can point me to leign-man understandable sources, like pyramid, straight-forward articles, etc... I'd apreciate that too, if nothing else to fuel the debate) |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: in your pocket, stealing all your change
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Since it's not source material, but house-rules I decided to post what I managed to scare up, so as to help the discussion along. Please feel free to point out any innacuracies, criticism is more than welcome!
Torso, Legs and Arms: Cloth Armor, DR 1, 7 lbs, $100 Leather, DR 2, 16 lbs, $200 Reinforced Leather, DR 3, 20 lbs, $250 Light Mail, DR 3/2, 18 lbs, $1,750 Mail, DR 4/2, 30 lbs, $1,100 Heavy Mail/Double-Mail, DR 5/3 45 lbs, $550 Bronze Armor, DR 4, 40 lbs, $1,750 Light Scale/Lamellar, DR 4, 25 lbs, $1,000 Medium Scale/Lamellar, DR 5, 38 lbs, $1,375 Heavy Scale/Lamellar, DR 6, 50 lbs, $2,000 Scale-Mail, DR 6, 40 lbs, $7,500 Light Plate, DR 6, 35 lbs, 4,000 Heavy Plate, DR 7, 55 lbs, $6,000 Hands Cloth Gloves, DR 1, negligeable, $15 Leather Gloves, DR 2, neg., $30 Reinforced Leather Gloves, DR 3, 1 lbs, $50 Gauntlets, DR 4, 2 lbs, $100 Heavy Gauntlets, DR 5, 2.5 lbs, $250 Feet Shoes, DR 1, 1 lb, $40 Leather Boots, DR 2, 3 lbs, $80 Reinforced Boots, DR 3, 3.5 lbs, $100 Sabatons (over shoes), DR 4, 3 lbs, $150 Sabatons (over boots), DR 5, 4 lbs, $200 Head (B=brain, F=face, N=neck) Cloth Cap (B), DR 1, $5 Hardened Leather Helm (B,F), DR 2, 0.5 lbs, $20 Reinforced Leather Helm (B,F), DR 3, 1 lb, $40 Bronze Helm (B,F), DR 4, 4.5 lbs, $160 Legionaire Helm (B,F), DR 4, 3.5 lbs, $150 Mail Coif (B, N), DR 4/2, 2.5 lbs, $60 Barrel Helm (B, F), DR 6, 5.5 lbs, $250 Steel Mask (F), DR 4, 1.5 lbs, $100 Full Helm (B, F, N), DR 7, 6 lbs, $350 Pot-Helm (B), DR 4, 3 lbs, $100 EDIT: the list is constantly being tweaked and edited as the discussion goes Last edited by Gudiomen; 08-10-2008 at 04:55 PM. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Chagrin Falls
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My $0.02
Greaves and especially gauntlets nedd to be as light as possible. weight at the end of your extremities is 'harder' to move and slows you down. Helmets, not so much. a nice heavy helmet that is well padded and sits well helps soak up soak up some of the momentum of an incoming shot. So lighter is not necessarily better. Good luck, and thanks for the list
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Benundefined Life has a funny way of making sure you decide to leave the party just a few minutes too late to avoid trouble. |
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#4 | ||
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: in your pocket, stealing all your change
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A barrel-helm should weigh less than a full helm, since the full helm (iconic "beaked" visor helm) has more surface area and is equally or more thick (as DR implies). If you note my list, that's the case... but in RAW GURPS they both weigh 10 lbs, the full-helm covers more areas (neck) and has higher DR... perhaps the barrel-helm is made of wrough iron and the full-helm steel, wich would account for it being lighter for the area covered and having higher DR. Beyond that, 10 lbs is roughly 5kg... wich seems a bit off on the heavy side to me. Wouldn't you agree? Quote:
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Charlotte, North Caroline, United States of America, Earth?
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I was under the impression that Sabatons and Gauntlets were often very strongly built, and heavier than equivelent armor other the torso and limbs. The exteremities have a number of bones, which are quite fragile(I'm working with a fractured hand right now, lifting heavy boxes) and easily broken.
Of course, if historical art is anything to go by, extremity armor seems fairly rare, and often times not used. Semms alot of guys prefered to hav the flexibility and responsiveness of softer protection(gloves and turnshoes) to heavier armor that encumbers one. And armor that doesn't protect well seems to be pretty pointless. For example, a 14th century harness, the Charburg #13 consists of bascinet, visor and aventail(11.75lbs), segmented breastplate(5.83lbs), arm harnesses(5.19lbs), gauntlets(2.07lbs), hauberk of mail(20.72lbs). A 15th century german gothic harness of 57lbs consists of helmet(8.9lbs), gorget(2.92lbs), breastplate(6.4lbs), backplate and guard-reign(6.4lbs), taces(6.5lbs), pauldrons(4.40lbs), arms(6.84lbs), gauntlets(1.84lbs), cuisses(3.2lbs), greaves and sabatons(9.35lbs). For comparison, a 51lb Milanese harnes, 15th century has greaves that weigh 3.75 lbs. Even if we double the weight of the gothic graves, we're still left with 2lbs of weight for the sabatons. And in all likelyhood, the greaves would not be THAT heavy. The arms weight between 2-3lbs each. Gauntlets and sabatons are absent. Helmets do seem to hover at around 8-9lbs for most periods. Source: Techniques of Medieval Armour Reproduction by Brian R. Price.
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Hydration is key |
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Chagrin Falls
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To be clear, I was talking about competing principles of design. If you can make gauntlets that weigh nothing and don't bend/tear/shatter then you have made the perfect set If you make a helmet with 0 mass, it may not protect as well due to it's inability to contribute static momentum to the head. (I'm all about making my opponent's weapon move as much material as possible when striking at my head) Anyway, just trying to point out that there is a tradeoff that may change someones decision on what to call 'ideal' for a particular piece of armor.
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Benundefined Life has a funny way of making sure you decide to leave the party just a few minutes too late to avoid trouble. |
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#7 | ||
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: in your pocket, stealing all your change
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Philippines, Makati
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from this link wouldnt it be better to subdivide DR between cut/cr/imp+pi. It would be DR 1/3/1 torso and DR 0/2/0 limbs in my calculations although from the strategikon marching soldiers are advised against wearing armored greeves or leggings. making the ideal wear for armor as a long sleeved hauberk as you can find in many images online. just my $0.02 |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Manhattan, Kansas
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*I reserve this spot for posting a large amount of 15th century armour weights from a few museum catalogues when I get home tonight.
I think your greaves & sabatons are still too heavy, but at least you've done away with the official GURPS weight of 7(!!) pounds for sabatons... *EDIT: In the interest of greater visibility, I have elected to post some weights on page three of this thread rather than here.
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Non Concedo. Last edited by ArmoredSaint; 07-31-2008 at 06:23 AM. |
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#10 | ||||||
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: in your pocket, stealing all your change
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You may have a point though, it's hard to imagine something like cloth armor wich is built for military purposes to have twice the weight of winter clothing and as much DR... Quote:
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Build has a lot to do with it, gaucho boots for instance are tight fit (like jokeys) while lots of boots are loose around the shin, that's added surface (more leather, more weigh) and they have thin, yet very hard leather soles, wich weigh much less than thick rubber soles we ordinarily see. But again, you guys are right... 2 lbs for a pair of DR 2 boots is way underweigh. As for reinforced leather, 4-4.5 lbs seems reasonable, since you don't need much to push hard leather boots into DR 3... Quote:
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Last edited by Gudiomen; 07-30-2008 at 03:30 PM. |
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