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#1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: The former Chochenyo territory
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Another approach to reduce the effectiveness of the extra layers could be to give the best layer its full DR, second gets half, third gets one-third, etc. So for the example of DR 8, 12, 12, and 12, it would add up to:
12 + 12/2 + 12/3 + 8/4 = 12+6+4+2 = 24
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My gaming blog: Thor's Grumblings Keep your friends close, and your enemies in Close Combat. |
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#2 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Somewhere between Cape Horn and Zenith Point
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Quote:
Because of that, I think that both rules above explained better the article that makes me post this thread firstplace. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Maitland, NSW, Australia
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It might be simpler to simply subtract one die per layer.
First layer gets full value Second layers gets -1 die Third layer gets -2 dice etc. The result would be that lighter layers effectively contribute nothing extra.
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Compact Castles gives the gamer an instant portfolio of genuine, real-world castle floorplans to use in any historical, low-tech, or fantasy game setting. |
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#4 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Somewhere between Cape Horn and Zenith Point
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Quote:
I confess that I prefer approaches that mirror more realistically, despite a tick more complexity, but nothing too “heavy” to slow-down the game. Last edited by General Lee; 01-12-2017 at 08:08 PM. |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Berkeley, CA
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Note that fundamentally, the rounds level IIIa are supposed to stop have a total energy of 12-15J/mm^2, while the rounds level III is supposed to stop have a total energy of ~75J/mm^2, and the protection for flexible armor is fairly linear in thickness.
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| Tags |
| flexible armor, high-tech, layering armor |
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