Miniatures Set 2 Assembly Notes

[ianargent]

Originally Posted by ColBosch

I used to operate the M1A1/A2 Abrams. It's funny how the loader has a ton of room, the driver has a surprising amount, but the gunner and commander are crammed into one little corner of the turret.

That doesn't surprise me that much, actually. IIRC the M1 has nothing ahead of the turret basket but armor and the driver (and, probably, some fuel tanks) and the loader needs room to load. That leaves the CO and the gunner not a lot of room to do their things (for which they don't need a lot of room, no?).

Pragmatically, I don't expect an autoloader to become popular in US tanks for a while, even if we did get around to replacing the M1 series; a human loader can replace or be replaced by the gunner or CO in the case that one or more of them go tango uniform, and just slow the rate of fire.

[tbeard1999]

Originally Posted by ianargent

That doesn't surprise me that much, actually. IIRC the M1 has nothing ahead of the turret basket but armor and the driver (and, probably, some fuel tanks) and the loader needs room to load. That leaves the CO and the gunner not a lot of room to do their things (for which they don't need a lot of room, no?).

Pragmatically, I don't expect an autoloader to become popular in US tanks for a while, even if we did get around to replacing the M1 series; a human loader can replace or be replaced by the gunner or CO in the case that one or more of them go tango uniform, and just slow the rate of fire.

I agree. The 4th crewman is also important for maintenance; losing him would increase the workload on the others by 33%.

As for their effectiveness, well, the Russian experience with autoloaders has been mixed at best. The Russians were not stupid or incompetent by the way; they were fully aware that autoloaders were a problematic solution. But they needed to minimize turret size to get the specified turret armor protection level on a 35-40 ton MBT (and to keep overall tank cost down). They did this by ruthlessly scrimping on ergonomics, limiting crew size to 5'6" and eliminating the loader.

All that said, if MBT guns get larger than the 120mm smoothbore that arms most Western MBTs, then I think an autoloader may become necessary. Rounds for the recently developed 130mm Rheinmetal smoothbore weigh 30 kg (vs 21 kg for 120mm rounds). The largest calibre tank gun used on US tanks was the 152mm gun/launcher on the M60A2 and M551 Sheridan. Their rounds weighed ~22 kg, which implies that this is something of a limit for manhandled rounds.

[tbeard1999]

Originally Posted by Mack_JB

Today I had some time so I went by my old employer and utilized their lasers to make some custom parts. CAD drawn at home.

Normally I'd use plexiglas, but that has become too expensive, so they suggested I use a polycarbonate they have found that works well.

These parts are small rectangles in clear material, 1/32" thick, with a small notch in two corners. You glue the three INF to this piece, and it nests in the deck opening of the GEV-PC. I've linked two photos from BGG:

https://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/4258443

https://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/4258442

<golf clap>

Both for an elegant solution and for the panache of using thousands of dollars of gear to enhance your toy soldiers.

[tbeard1999]

Originally Posted by ColBosch

Nice.

I've discovered an easy solution to the tiny antennas if you're having trouble assembling them: leave them off! The light tanks and mobile howitzers look just fine without them.

...I mean, I found the solution, but I'm not implementing it in my forces.

I haven't started on my HUNDREDS of minis yet, but you could also replace the dish antennas with straight radio-type antennas (I'd use nylon brush bristles).

[TheAmishStig]

Originally Posted by Mack_JB

Today I had some time so I went by my old employer and utilized their lasers to make some custom parts. CAD drawn at home.

Normally I'd use plexiglas, but that has become too expensive, so they suggested I use a polycarbonate they have found that works well.

These parts are small rectangles in clear material, 1/32" thick, with a small notch in two corners. You glue the three INF to this piece, and it nests in the deck opening of the GEV-PC. I've linked two photos from BGG:

https://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/4258443

https://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/4258442

You wouldn't happen to have the measurements handy, would you? Got some CAD files I have to send over to Litko for a 'How much to...' anyway, may as well toss them on the pile.

[Mack_JB]

Originally Posted by tbeard1999

Both for an elegant solution and for the panache of using thousands of dollars of gear to enhance your toy soldiers.

My old employer makes about 60% of their income from model railroad kits, so toys are deeply ingrained there. In fact, they are interested in all sorts of hobby things. I clued one guy in to Phil Reed's website and books on figures, he'd never heard of them.

[Mack_JB]

Originally Posted by TheAmishStig

You wouldn't happen to have the measurements handy, would you? Got some CAD files I have to send over to Litko for a 'How much to...' anyway, may as well toss them on the pile.

I'll reply in a PM ...

[CON_Troll]

Originally Posted by offsides

I got my sets (2x Many Minis in one box - the outer carton was dented to the point of breaking the heavy cardboard, and one of the inner boxes got a little battered <snip>

Wow. Sorry to hear that. Good that your minis weren't damaged.

Thank you very much for the detailed build instructions for each model. Very helpful.

[ianargent]

Originally Posted by tbeard1999

I haven't started on my HUNDREDS of minis yet, but you could also replace the dish antennas with straight radio-type antennas (I'd use nylon brush bristles).

I remember reading an old-school modeling trick to make aerials and other "wire" gubbins: heat some sprue (carefully) and pull it apart gently to generate thin plastic "wire."

[Mack_JB]

Originally Posted by ianargent

I remember reading an old-school modeling trick to make aerials and other "wire" gubbins: heat some sprue (carefully) and pull it apart gently to generate thin plastic "wire."

Yes, that was the standard process in the dark ages ... and man, was it ever difficult and tedious. Luckily today they make all kinds of thin phosphor bronze wire and styrene rod for use in that area.