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Originally Posted by Polydamas
What examples of such heavy quilted garments worn under iron armour do you have? I linked you a page describing arming doublets/pourpoints/aketons worn under iron armour, they are about as heavy as a modern giacca/blazer with a complete canvas lining. If you go by weight, none of them is heavy enough for GURPS Padded Cloth, if you go by thickness than the heaviest might be DR 1.
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The point is that some padding that will be DR 1* in game was sometimes worn, especially if you consider the Charles garment as Light Layered Cloth with DR 2*. Both the
kabadion and some aketons from mid XII century to early XIV century were thicker than ordinary clothing, enough to give DR 1* (even if they didn't reach the GURPS's "6 lbs. for 100% of torso armour"). Treating them as Padded Cloth (removing the need of separate Ordinary Clothing garments, and thus considering them as being 4.4 lbs. + 1.6 lbs. of Ordinary Clothing; or even better, as 3.5 lbs. + 1.6 lbs of Ordinary Clothing in case of Expert Tailoring) would be fine IMO, and this specific combination shouldn't give DX penalty (maybe adding +1 CF for being made and tailored to worn with other forms of armour for a better game balance). You could even consider them as full DR 1* only if they're worn
with other armour, giving them -1 DR vs. impaling if they're worn as standalone armour (this interaction between garments is similarly represented in game with the combination of Plate Armour and the Arming Doublet).
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Why do you think such a fifteenth-century jack would be GURPS Padded Cloth not Layered Cloth? Sources from fifteenth-century Europe describe jacks of from 10 to 30 layers of linen cloth, and we have some extant examples in Germany which are quite thick except where the breastplate will cover them.
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At sight, it could be GURPS "Padded Cloth", GURPS "Light Layered Cloth" or a real-life in-between these two (something that maybe would give DR 1.5*, but we have to round up or down both DR and weight for game granularity). I'll treat it as "Padded Cloth" or, at maximum, as "Light Layered Cloth" for torso and shoulders and "Padded Cloth" for the rest of the sleeves. Anyway, is clearly something heavier than regular clothing but lighter than a proper jack meant to be used as standalone armour, and is worn between mail and breastplate.