New Ogre Miniatures Speed Painting Tutorial

[tbeard1999]

Originally Posted by ColBosch

If you check the link in my sig, you'll see I've adopted a modified version of your technique. Instead of mounting my minis on dowels, I'm using large "popsicle sticks" to hold three to five at a time. I've only gotten to the ink wash stage of painting as of this morning, but once I'm a bit more awake I think it'll really speed up my drybrushing and detailing.

I really like your paint jobs, so it’s gratifying - but a bit hard to believe - that you could learn anything from me. I think I’ll copy your look for future howitzers I paint.

[ColBosch]

The day I stop learning is the day they throw me in the ground. I am always up for learning new techniques and tricks. I started as a "Golden Demon"-style painter, all layering watery paint and scenic bases and one miniature finished every two weeks and about $10,000 in lead, pewter, and plastic waiting its turn. Now I just want to get my minis done and on the table. I really appreciate what you've shared, and while our techniques are different, I'm very happy to have found something new that really saves a ton of time.

Ironically, the one unit from this batch that I've not really started yet are the howitzers, since they're too big to comfortably fit on the sticks and require the "concrete" of their bases painted before washing.

[wolf90]

I seem to remember some debate about what glue was best to use to assemble the miniatures during the Kickstarter. As we seem to have some experts here, is there any consensus between you all as to what type and/or brand is best for gluing all of these together?

D.

[Mack_JB]

Since these are just good old styrene, you can use Testor's Liquid Cement, something fancier like Tenax R7, or good old MEK applied with a fine brush. Those three solvents will give nice strong joints, and you need not mess with any superglue.

[ColBosch]

As usual, I just use superglue. Because...honestly, because I'm lazy. I can get CA anywhere, but for proper plastic glues I have to actually go further than "across the street." My building actually shares a parking lot with a Walmart. (And no, they don't carry any sort of proper plastic glue.)

If these were large aircraft or tank models, I'd absolutely go get some proper glue, but Ogre minis have small, lightweight bits so cyanoacrylate works fine.

[Hastati]

Thanks for those tutorials, very helpful to see what other people are doing. I'm a historical miniatures gamer, but I've been thinking of using these more as game pieces and don't want to invest a huge amount of time painting them (assuming they ever arrive).

[tbeard1999]

Originally Posted by wolf90

I seem to remember some debate about what glue was best to use to assemble the miniatures during the Kickstarter. As we seem to have some experts here, is there any consensus between you all as to what type and/or brand is best for gluing all of these together?

D.

I use plastic model cement (Testor’s liquid cement with the precision applicator). I do this out of habit more than anything else. Superglue might work fine, but I don’t think I’ve *ever* used it on styrene plastic models.

[tbeard1999]

Originally Posted by ColBosch

The day I stop learning is the day they throw me in the ground. I am always up for learning new techniques and tricks. I started as a "Golden Demon"-style painter, all layering watery paint and scenic bases and one miniature finished every two weeks and about $10,000 in lead, pewter, and plastic waiting its turn. Now I just want to get my minis done and on the table. I really appreciate what you've shared, and while our techniques are different, I'm very happy to have found something new that really saves a ton of time.

Ironically, the one unit from this batch that I've not really started yet are the howitzers, since they're too big to comfortably fit on the sticks and require the "concrete" of their bases painted before washing.

Old paint pots (GW “bolter shell”, Testor’s model master or Tamiya) make perfectly serviceable miniature holders (with blue-tack or similar). They’re big enough to accommodate the howitzers.

[J. Durr]

I'm grateful to people for the glue recommendations. Further questions: Is there a brush type/brand that you recommend for doing these minis specifically? Is there a best technique for getting the GEV jets right?

[CON_Troll]

Originally Posted by J. Durr

I'm grateful to people for the glue recommendations. Further questions: Is there a brush type/brand that you recommend for doing these minis specifically? Is there a best technique for getting the GEV jets right?

I've used Citadel brushes for over two decades. As long as you take care of them, they seem to last a long time. Here's a link to a thread discussing brush types and how to properly care for them at BGG: https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/150...-best-fine-det

For "exhaust" effects, I do "dry-inking". I know that sounds strange. What I do is dip a medium width brush (for large model parts like the GEV main-intake fan) or a fine width brush (for tiny parts, like those GEV jet intakes and exhausts) in black ink, then wipe most of it off on a paper towel. I then lightly brush in straight lines at a 90 degree angle. This usually gets me an excellent "dirty exhaust" appearance. Since you're using ink, not the thicker paint, it doesn't wear on the brush as badly as standard "dry-brushing" has a tendency to do.