03-26-2019, 03:24 PM | #11 |
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Louisville, KY
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Re: Working with new components
Did anyone ever answer this? If we jack up our megahexes or cards, will there be opportunity to purchase replacements? I can put the cards in card sleeves and mark on those instead, but dry erase wipes off with a touch and is not the best method for this kind of thing IMHO.
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“...if one knew where to go, he could step through a shimmering portal today and be in Cidri . . .” The Fantasy Trip Resource Hub |
03-26-2019, 04:01 PM | #12 |
Join Date: Dec 2017
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Re: Working with new components
I am interested to experiment with what happens when a character marker chit touches one of the dry-erase lines; it is possible the lines will smear and/or transfer to the chits. We'll just have to see how that works out.
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03-26-2019, 05:39 PM | #13 | |
Join Date: May 2007
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Re: Working with new components
Quote:
Personally, I don't care if some marks get on my playing pieces. I'm here to play games, not preserve them in time capsules. |
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03-26-2019, 05:55 PM | #14 | |
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Arizona
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Re: Working with new components
Quote:
Two important points though: 1) I don't know how well rubber cement will work to hold paper to the dry-erase coated chipboard that came with the game (if you use the Megahex spines to make new hex counters, for example), so some experimentation would be necessary there; and 2) once you get the paper glued on, it's important to keep pressure on it for a couple of minutes until the rubber cement sets a bit. I then allow my new units to "cure" for about 48 hours before I try using them. Thus far, this technique has worked like a champ for games like Frederick the Great, Deluxe USN, October War, War Between the States, and others, and the counters I've made have lasted literally for over a decade (for the oldest ones) without dis-assembling themselves or otherwise deteriorating. In short, it works, though it may not be as elegant as some of the other solutions around! ;-) Of course, as you say, we don't have to sweat it this time around with the Adventures counters; but for folks who want to make more home-made counters, this technique might be useful. |
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03-26-2019, 09:29 PM | #15 |
Join Date: Dec 2017
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Re: Working with new components
I'll bet if you lightly sand the surface of the heavy stock cardboard they sent then it would take to rubber cement.
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03-26-2019, 10:05 PM | #16 |
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Arizona
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Re: Working with new components
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03-27-2019, 08:13 AM | #17 | |
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Louisville, KY
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Re: Working with new components
Quote:
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“...if one knew where to go, he could step through a shimmering portal today and be in Cidri . . .” The Fantasy Trip Resource Hub |
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03-27-2019, 10:31 AM | #18 |
Join Date: Jul 2005
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Re: Working with new components
In the olden days we'd sandwich a cardboard counter between two pieces of box tape. Then you rub both sides with the bowl of a spoon to get the tape on good and tight. Then trim the excess. This helped preserve thin cardboard counters, and made them more robust. Don't know how it would handle makers, though; never tried.
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03-27-2019, 05:06 PM | #19 |
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Florida Peninsula, Earth, Sol Sytem
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Re: Working with new components
I have tested the Megahexes and Fighter Cards with wet erase markers.
MH - wipe clean in tests of 5, 15, and 30 mins. exposure. FC - failed to wipe clean after 5 mins. Had to use rubbing alcohol to clean the mess. Currently testing the MHs for 8 hr exposure.
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The first rule of GMing "If you make it, players will break it" |
03-27-2019, 06:10 PM | #20 |
Join Date: Dec 2017
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Re: Working with new components
Oo, that's helpful! 'In god we trust; everyone else must bring data.'
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