Arrow damage

[Ze'Manel Cunha]

Originally Posted by Sam Cade

My draw weight is 71lbs by the scale.
I shoot a somewhat heavy broadhead so I need the poundage to keep the flight from being rainbow-like.
Im shooting heavy so I can confidently take front-quartering shots.
A friends 13 year old son shoots a 70lb PSE. And WINS meat shoots with it :-) Us kentucky folk must be made of sterner stuff than I thought.
Tink Nathan, professional bowhunter uses 90lb+ for elephants.

Anyway, a 120lb bow would be a monster.

http://www.martinarchery.com/faq/facts.php#draww
How modern bows work With all important charts.

(howatt used to make 100lb traditional bows)

Like I mentioned earlier, I'm not a bow person, and I might have mixed my terminology.
The actual pull on the string is not anywhere close to 120 lbs, but after the force multiplier from going through 4 pulleys, the actual shooting effect of that compound bow is equivalent to a 120 lbs longbow.

Does that make more sense?

[Sam Cade]

A 60lb compound bow still requires 60lbs of force to draw, however the mechanical advantage of the cams would mean that you have to hold considerably less weight at full draw. This is called "lett off.
So a 60lb bow takes 60 pounds to draw but only 11lbs to hold.

A traditional bow you hold more or less the same weight at full draw.

[angel_lord]

Originally Posted by Jim Bob

Since we also use the Bleeding rules, we say that it's necessary to remove the thing in order to do First Aid or Surgery on the wound, and thus stop the bleeding.

What, you don't allow surgery with the arrow inside the wound???? ;-)

[angel_lord]

Originally Posted by Sam Cade

A 60lb compound bow still requires 60lbs of force to draw, however the mechanical advantage of the cams would mean that you have to hold considerably less weight at full draw. This is called "lett off.
So a 60lb bow takes 60 pounds to draw but only 11lbs to hold.

A traditional bow you hold more or less the same weight at full draw.

Right, thanks Sam, I was going to mention that,but you got to it first. No sense repeating your comments. Just reinforcing your statement.

And By the by Ze'Manel Cunha, the links I posted about choosing bows have a lot of great information for beginners - if you are interested at all.

[angel_lord]

Originally Posted by Sam Cade

My draw weight is 71lbs by the scale.
I shoot a somewhat heavy broadhead so I need the poundage to keep the flight from being rainbow-like.
Im shooting heavy so I can confidently take front-quartering shots.
A friends 13 year old son shoots a 70lb PSE. And WINS meat shoots with it :-) Us kentucky folk must be made of sterner stuff than I thought.
Tink Nathan, professional bowhunter uses 90lb+ for elephants.

Anyway, a 120lb bow would be a monster.

http://www.martinarchery.com/faq/facts.php#draww
How modern bows work With all important charts.

(howatt used to make 100lb traditional bows)

Nah, just a different style of shooting and expectation is all. I'm getting occasional shoot through on Elk with 60lb draw, and consistant shoot through on Mule and White-tail deer at 25 to 35 yards, so I don't worry about it much. Archery instructors vary on what they tell you anyway, some say you should go for moderate draw and more accuracy - other s say you should go for the biggest punch you can handle. I'm of the moderate draw school, so I don't worry much about the idea of shooting a more pwoerful bow.

If I remember from living in WV, you guys in the Appalachians have to shoot through a bit more flak than we do here in the west, so a heavier draw might be just the thing.

[Sam Cade]

So when does GURPS:Bowhunting come out anyway? :-)

[Ze'Manel Cunha]

Originally Posted by Sam Cade

A 60lb compound bow still requires 60lbs of force to draw, however the mechanical advantage of the cams would mean that you have to hold considerably less weight at full draw. This is called "lett off.
So a 60lb bow takes 60 pounds to draw but only 11lbs to hold.

A traditional bow you hold more or less the same weight at full draw.

It's been a while, so I probably just didn't remember correctly.
It was likely something said along the lines that his compound bow had the range equivalent of a 120 lbs* longbow which stuck in my mind.

I know it wasn't an average 40-60 lb bow to draw since I while I could draw it, it was hard, and despite the cams, hard to hold it at full draw. Few others of our friends could draw the thing, far less fire it. Oh, and when I fired the damn thing, I had very little accuraccy with it, though my friend was pretty good with it.
I attributed that disparity to the bow being designed for someone his height, his having real skill, and the 5" and 50 lbs he has over me. *grin*

[*But again, it has been years and my numbers could easily be off.]

Originally Posted by angel_lord

And By the by Ze'Manel Cunha, the links I posted about choosing bows have a lot of great information for beginners - if you are interested at all.

Thanks, I am interested, however, living in Honolulu makes that a bit of a tough hobby to pick up. One of these years.

[tbone]

Originally Posted by Jim Bob

We use the same rule as for picks, etc. However, in both cases, what we say is,

<snip>

That looks like a pretty thorough but playable set of rules. Interesting. Thanks!

[Martichoras]

I agree with Jim Bob's reasoning. I am wondering whether he or anyone else has an opinion about how much damage primitive firearms of TL4 (and TL3) should do? The bullets fired are often very large (in excess of 15 mm), but shot at low velocity and unlikely to expand, right?

(the quoted post has been cut down)

Originally Posted by Jim Bob

So, he did okay with the melee rules, armour, damage, etc. Then he came to guns. "Er," he said, "what do I do with them." Looks to me like he got suckered by the old myth that knights stopped wearing armour because of guns, and that they turn a man into mince - hey, it works for Chuck Norris. "Okay, so guns will do six or seven dice of damage. But hey, kevlar vest can stop that. Okay, DR 24."

[b]Firearms damage
Basic damage is altered as follows:
Pistols and submachineguns, 2d pi.

• .22, 5.56mm, .38, do 2d pi-
• .45, 9mm, do 2d pi
• .50, and larger, do 2d pi+

Rifles, 3d pi

• .22, 5.56mm, 6mm, 3d pi
• .308, 6.7mm, 7.62mm, 3d pi+
• .457 and larger, 3d pi++
• Hollow point rounds up the damage a level.
• AP rounds add an armour divisor of (2), but drop damage down one level.

This brings the deadliness of firearms in line with the deadliness of spears, etc. I've never understood why a half-inch hole made by a bullet is somehow more dangerous to you than a half-inch hole made by a knife.

[Sam Cade]

The soft lead balls from a Musket caliber weapon can and do expand.
Killed a deer 2 years ago with a replica Brown Bess, the .74 ball (cast from wheel weights) expanded to over 1 inch.
http://www.navyarms.com/html/mil_flintlocks.html
Flintlocks are WAY too much work btw..