Homemade Overlay Sheets

[offsides]

I've started making my own homemade overlay sheets, using the Ogre Video Game's map export function, my color laser printer, 8.5x11 full-sheet labels and 8.5x11 0.057" (1.5mm) chipboard sheets. I checked with Drew and he gave me the go-ahead to post the details, so here they are.

First off, the materials/tools I used:

• The Ogre Video Game
• GIMP (GNU Image Manipulation Program)
• HP Color LaserJet Pro MFP M477fdn
• Avery 5265 full-page labels
• Grafix 8.5x11" White Chipboard Sheets

Second, the instructions:

1. Create a new a 10x10 scenario in the Ogre Scenario Editor (the smallest it can make).
2. Fill a section 7 hexes long (that is, L-R in the scenario editor) x 5 hexes wide (top-bottom) with the terrain of your choice. You can use all the same image or different images, but I recommend not using images with overflow (that is, the flow onto the surrounding hexes) for consistency.
3. (Optional) Surround the 7x5 section if hexes with a single terrain NOT in your set of hexes (e.g., if you're making water overlays, use town). This makes the step 5 easier (and using town hexes wastes less toner :)).
4. Export the image at a resolution of 9216x5184 pixes. You'll probably need to exit Ogre completely after this because it always crashes on me if I try to do more than one at a time.
5. Open the exported image in the image editor of your choice. Crop the image so that it's just the 7x5 section (plus the partial hexes that fill the rectangle) The end result will be a little over 2600x1700. You will need to make sure that whatever size image you have will fit within the printable area of your printer, which is why it needs to be cropped as tight as possible.
6. Print the cropped image at 250dpi on full sheet labels. This will force the image to print at the correct size to match the ODE/O6E hex size given the above image resolution. Remember to set the paper type to labels for proper printing results or the toner won't fuse properly.
7. Affix the label to 8.5x11 1.5mm chipboard and cut it out in whatever shape you want.

Notes on the process:

• I said it in step 6, but I'll say it again: make sure to set the paper type to 'label' or whatever your printer driver calls it, or you'll be sorry. I wasted 2 labels (and have a smudged third) because I forgot to do so, and the fuser didn't set anywhere from 20-40% of the toner. Not only does it mess up the image, but you get unfused toner all over everything if you're not careful!
• Once you create the first map, you can save the scenario and reuse it to create more maps to speed up the process (or not).
• You can use any image editor you want, as long as it does what you need it to. I use GIMP because I'm a Linux Geek :)
• I tried rotating the image (5 hexes tall x 7 columns wide) to get more hexes on the page, but it's just too small given the printer margin requirements and you end up with 1 fewer hex overall. However, if your minimum printer margins are too big to get a 7x5 image to print without being too small or cut off, you may be able to fit the 5x7 version cleanly.
• I haven't actually cut any of my sheets yet, as I have misplaced my cutting mat and I'm still figuring out the exact overlays I need. I'll report back on how they cut and with some pictures when I get a chance. And yes, I do have plans for making a Pittsburgh map :)
• I used the sizes/resolutions I did because it was the first one I tried and it worked nicely. Feel free to try different ones to see if you can get better images and/or make it easier to work with. I went as big as I did because I was trying to get at least close to the 300dpi that the original maps were printed with (at least I think that's what they are).
• An alternate source of hex images is OgreMap2, though I don't know what the proper resolutions would be.

[GranitePenguin]

Originally Posted by offsides

You can use any image editor you want, as long as it does what you need it to. I use GIMP because I'm a Linux Geek :)

I thought the reason for using GIMP was being cheap (I know that's why I use it; linux geek notwithstanding) ;-)

Phil did post recently that the official media was 300PPI (Tim asked).

It will be interesting to see what the finished product looks like. There are some nice variations (especially in the water/clear terrain) in the Steam game.

Have you experimented with inkjet printers at all? I'm willing to bet there are a lot more of those out there in homes than laserjets.

Sounds pretty promising. :-)

[offsides]

Originally Posted by GranitePenguin

I thought the reason for using GIMP was being cheap (I know that's why I use it; linux geek notwithstanding) ;-)

Well, there's that too, but since I run Linux natively it's more a matter of "I already have GIMP, why use anything else?" :P

Originally Posted by GranitePenguin

Have you experimented with inkjet printers at all? I'm willing to bet there are a lot more of those out there in homes than laserjets.

I have not - given that inkjet printers are practically disposable these days (replacement ink usually costs more than replacing the printer, especially for brands that crypto-lock the cartridges) and that I don't print enough to not waste half the cartridge re-cleaning the print head after sitting for a month or two at a time, I only buy lasers these days. Plus, the cost of a reasonable color laser has come down so much in the past 5 years that it's just a matter of finding a good one on sale and it becomes cost-effective. But I assume that a good inkjet printer combined with good inkjet labels (and letting them dry properly) would work just as well (other than being less spill-resistent - another reason I like lasers :)).

[TheAmishStig]

That is really neat. In terms of sources, there is also an official PDF of terrain backgrounds floating around somewhere, that was released specifically for us to make more overlays (mandatory disclaimer: for personal use...no mass-producing, selling, giving away, etc).

I imagine the hardest part of all this is going to be getting clean, consistent cuts. If it was squares you could use a guillotine cutter, but no such luck.

[GranitePenguin]

Originally Posted by TheAmishStig

That is really neat. In terms of sources, there is also an official PDF of terrain backgrounds floating around somewhere, that was released specifically for us to make more overlays (mandatory disclaimer: for personal use...no mass-producing, selling, giving away, etc).

Hmm... I remember the streams overlays, but not any full-hex ones. That's worth finding if they really exist. :-(

I imagine the hardest part of all this is going to be getting clean, consistent cuts. If it was squares you could use a guillotine cutter, but no such luck.

An Ogre-branded crinkle-cut guillotine?

[TheAmishStig]

Originally Posted by GranitePenguin

Hmm... I remember the streams overlays, but not any full-hex ones. That's worth finding if they really exist. :-(

An Ogre-branded crinkle-cut guillotine?

Turns out I'm not crazy! It's in the 'Resources' section at the bottom, along with a sheet for making faction logos / faction-font lettering: http://www.sjgames.com/miniatures/

Tried looking, they do make "classroom-grade" die cutters...little things that look like pasta rollers...but I couldn't find any that offered 1" flat-to-flat hexes as a die.

[GranitePenguin]

Originally Posted by TheAmishStig

Turns out I'm not crazy! It's in the 'Resources' section at the bottom, along with a sheet for making faction logos / faction-font lettering: http://www.sjgames.com/miniatures/

Tried looking, they do make "classroom-grade" die cutters...little things that look like pasta rollers...but I couldn't find any that offered 1" flat-to-flat hexes as a die.

Wowsers! How did I miss this one? Raw terrain graphics for the win; that's really nice.

[TheAmishStig]

Derp. I mean 1.5" flat to flat. But you guys knew that.

[Misplaced Buckeye]

Any of the older style ScanNCut machines will take up to 1.5 mm stuff. Makes cutting a breeze. The newer machines will do 2mm and the DX coming this fall does 3mm and has an auto blade height adjuster

[GranitePenguin]

Originally Posted by Misplaced Buckeye

Any of the older style ScanNCut machines will take up to 1.5 mm stuff. Makes cutting a breeze. The newer machines will do 2mm and the DX coming this fall does 3mm and has an auto blade height adjuster

Yes, and the scan-then-cut aspect of it is amazing. That would easily cut any irregular shapes without breaking a sweat. I have been using it to cut out inserts for buttons. It's sooooo nice to be able to print out a sheet, let it find all the bits, then cut away.