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Old 03-25-2019, 07:56 PM   #1
larsdangly
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Default Working with new components

I understand the character cards are intended to have dry-erase marker on them, and perhaps the MH tiles as well. But before I started experimenting I wanted to make sure I've got it right. Are both these items dry-erase compatible? How about the figure markers (chits)? How about wet erase markers, like the ones people use on Chessex mats?
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:04 PM   #2
ColBosch
 
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Default Re: Working with new components

I used the markers from SJ Games's edition of Triplanetary on the cards and they cleaned up just fine. I didn't try the megahexes or counters.
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:33 PM   #3
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Default Re: Working with new components

Quote:
Originally Posted by ColBosch View Post
I used the markers from SJ Games's edition of Triplanetary on the cards and they cleaned up just fine. I didn't try the megahexes or counters.
I think the megahexes are dry-erase compatible, but get a quote from someone from SJG first, to be sure. I do not think the counters are made to be.
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:44 PM   #4
ColBosch
 
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Default Re: Working with new components

I can test them in about 90 minutes.
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Old 03-25-2019, 10:04 PM   #5
JLV
 
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Default Re: Working with new components

If memory serves, if you read the "Read This First" insert in your Legacy edition, you should get some advice on what to use on the Megahexes...
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Old 03-25-2019, 10:54 PM   #6
ColBosch
 
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Default Re: Working with new components

The generic dry-erase markers from Triplanetary went on and wiped off the character cards, counters, and megahexes with no problems.
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Old 03-26-2019, 03:09 AM   #7
philreed
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Default Re: Working with new components

Quote:
Originally Posted by ColBosch View Post
The generic dry-erase markers from Triplanetary went on and wiped off the character cards, counters, and megahexes with no problems.
Cards and megahexes were produced to work with dry erase. We do not recommend leaving the marks on there for weeks or months; wipe off after play.

We did not specify that the counters work with dry erase, so we cannot recommend or encourage those be written on with dry erase markers.
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Old 03-26-2019, 08:52 AM   #8
larsdangly
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Default Re: Working with new components

Great; thanks everyone! I'm guessing these surfaces will not hold up to wet erase markers (which is too bad, because dry erase marker doesn't really stick properly to vinyl Chessex mats, so I think I'll need two sets of markers ... which I'll inevitably mix up).
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Old 03-26-2019, 02:40 PM   #9
larsdangly
 
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Default Re: Working with new components

Ok, next question on this general subject: The 'Adventures' all come with custom markers, which we presumably are supposed to transform into hard copy in some fashion or another. The path of least resistance is to just print them and cut them out as thin paper pieces, but I suspect the craftier of the people here will take a more ambitious approach and get them mounted on firm cardboard with a weight and texture similar to our die cut pieces. Does anyone here have specific materials and methods they'd like to share, to help the less talented of us make good quality components?

Edit: I just figured out that they are giving us die cut counter sheets with the adventure book. What will they think of next!! But, perhaps my question is useful in a more general sense, as folks are likely to want to do things like this.
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Old 03-26-2019, 03:00 PM   #10
Anaraxes
 
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Default Re: Working with new components

I've seen cardstock with a dry-erase coating sold for use in the scrapbooking hobby. (I say that because in the US, 12" x 12" is a popular size for that, which size I haven't seen anywhere else.) It looks like it's about 16-20 pt / 300 gsm / 110 lb thickness, so not as thick as the counters, but probably as thick as the character cards in the Legacy Edition.

For the full counter thickness, it might be easiest just to print your stock and then laminate it. An alternative might be glossy acrylic "fixative" (sold in art supply stores to keep chalk / pastel / charcoal from smudging, also found in office supply stores to protect water-based inkjet prints).

But I haven't tried any of those myself.
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