How to protect paint jobs on miniatures??

[KhyberJoe]

Since a lot of people at conventions are clods about using other people's miniatures, I do not put a lot of time into painting and finishing most of my minis. What I have stumbled across is using automobile engine spray paint to give the minis a tough, but colorful hide.

Also, I prefer super glue Gel to the liquid. For me, it seems to work better.

Joe

[draknoir2]

Originally Posted by KhyberJoe

Since a lot of people at conventions are clods about using other people's miniatures, I do not put a lot of time into painting and finishing most of my minis. What I have stumbled across is using automobile engine spray paint to give the minis a tough, but colorful hide.

Also, I prefer super glue Gel to the liquid. For me, it seems to work better.

Joe

My experience exactly. You would think gamers would have more respect for other people's hard work. Generic spray paints from Wal-mart work fine... and at $0.99 per 16oz can, they're a bargain. And ditto on the super glue gel thing too.

[Firestorm]

Do the guidelines for painting and varnishing the Ogre miniatures also apply to resin models?

I am currently also working on assembling and painting a Battletech Vulture Mech kit by Armorcast. In the not too distant future, I plan to finish the camo paint job and details, perform the final assembly, and seal/protect the paint.

Thanks.

[draknoir2]

Originally Posted by Firestorm

Do the guidelines for painting and varnishing the Ogre miniatures also apply to resin models?

I am currently also working on assembling and painting a Battletech Vulture Mech kit by Armorcast. In the not too distant future, I plan to finish the camo paint job and details, perform the final assembly, and seal/protect the paint.

Thanks.

Careful on the resin models... some solvent based paints can attack the plastic, depending on the type of resin.

[GoatRider]

Originally Posted by Firestorm

Do the guidelines for painting and varnishing the Ogre miniatures also apply to resin models?

I am currently also working on assembling and painting a Battletech Vulture Mech kit by Armorcast. In the not too distant future, I plan to finish the camo paint job and details, perform the final assembly, and seal/protect the paint.

Thanks.

Yes. In fact, the washing and priming is even more important for resin, since they use more mold release, and even without the mold release they tend to repel water-based paints. Forgeworld even recommends an automotive primer, because it uses stronger solvents. More information on the forgeworld site:

Working with Resin Models

[Firestorm]

Originally Posted by draknoir2

Careful on the resin models... some solvent based paints can attack the plastic, depending on the type of resin.

I have been using acrylic paints for the camo paint job on my Vulture resin kit. They seem to work fine up to this point. I have some detail work to finish, and then I plan to spray on the protective varnish and Dullcote.

[Piecemaker]

Krylon triple thick is a lovely overcoat. Although lately I have been using Future Floor Wax to coat my models. It dries thin, but tough. After I have given them two coats of future, and baked it, and it's cool (4-6 hours...) I hit it with a matte spray. You can skip this step if you don't want matte minis.

[mgrinter]

So I finally found half of the answers I needed: wait 24-48 hours after primer before painting, wait at least 48 hours after painting before applying sealer.

How long does one need to wait between coats of sealer? And how long after the final coat before they can be used in heavy play? I'm planning to do 2 coats high gloss and a final coat of dull, if that matters. Thanks!!

[sparky00]

I usually wait about 20-30 min between coats of the same sealer. If changing sealers (eg. gloss to dull), I'll usually wait a day or two, especially if they are from different manufacturers - not all chemistries play well together. As for handling, it really depends on how many layers of primer, paint & sealer you have applied, and how long each has dried before being over-coated.

In general, I use my nose as a guide. I'll wait until no trace of odor from the coatings remain, then wait 3-5 days after that before handling.

Its much easier to allow sufficient drying time than to strip, clean & repaint.

[schoon]

Originally Posted by Piecemaker

Krylon triple thick is a lovely overcoat. Although lately I have been using Future Floor Wax to coat my models. It dries thin, but tough. After I have given them two coats of future, and baked it, and it's cool (4-6 hours...) I hit it with a matte spray. You can skip this step if you don't want matte minis.

+1 on the Future Floor Wax. Very tough, but does require a semi-matte or matte overcoat, as it's VERY glossy.