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Old 05-19-2013, 05:07 PM   #11
ammulder
 
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Philadelphia Area
Default Re: Repair Questions

Next Set:

Nitrous Oxide: it doesn't have it's own DP. Should the cost be included in the engine cost when calculating engine repair/replacement values (e.g. if the engine takes 2 hits of damage)? That's the way I'm treating Carburetors, BP/TH, and Turbo/Super-chargers. For now, I will assume that goes for Nitrous too.

As far as I can tell, the Repair Jobs list does not list a difficulty to repair accessories, or things other than tires, weapons, power plants, computers, fifth wheels, and copter rotors. For instance: a laser battery, rocket boosters, galley, sound enhancement, etc. I will assume "Medium", which is the catch-all for "other weapons".

And how long does it take to install new armor? Normally when repairing it takes one successful roll per point of damage (or one per three for armor), but when replacing it only takes one success to remove the junk and another success to install the replacement. It seems odd that it might take only an hour or two to replace the armor on an entire vehicle, though you might imagine it's easier to install entire sheets of armor rather than spot-welding fixes or whatever. Maybe it should be one remove/replace success per armor facing?
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:57 AM   #12
swordtart
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Default Re: Repair Questions

With armour why can't it be...

"Ok chief you got a few options. I can replace the whole set with an off the shelf clamshell form. Its not cheap, but it's just a case of torching through the top and bottom pinion bolts and dropping off the undershell and lift of the rest in one section. It'll take a moment or two to drill out the firing ports, but refitting the shell is usually a snap (unless you have any custom armour mods). Replace the main pinion bolts and you are done."

"But since you only have major damage to the front armour, I can leave the clam shell in place. I'll cut the front sub assembly pinions instead and fit an new front shell. I got a CAD-Former in back that I can get your vehicle spec in. Tell me how many layers you want and while it's doing it's work I'll get the exisitng shell off. Then it's like the clam shell. It's quite a bit cheaper than the clam shell but just as quick."

"With those dinks in the rear armour, it's a bit of a waste replacing all of it. I have some epoxy weld patches that need some smoothing. It's not quick and to be honest for major repairs not that cost effective, but for a small dink it's your cheapest bet."

"Of course I can just create the sells for you and you can fit them yourself and save a few bucks, or supply the weld patches. Up to you..."

"Oh and If you interested I have some R&D reject stuff from Uncle Al. It's a bonding material that you can glue your old armour fragments back together. It's pretty cheap and cheerful. Sometimes the big chunks can scab off and it's vulnerable to samll arms fire, but as a get you home fix it can be handy to keep in the glove compartment..."

(That last is specific to my campaign ;)
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:27 PM   #13
ElLoboGordo
 
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Central Oklahoma
Default Re: Repair Questions

I love the idea of 3d-printing plastic armor, with bigger truck stops able to scan your car (in some equivalent of a car wash conveyor belt) and stripe-out custom panels that are easily bond-welded/bolted right on over the old fractured stuff. You can even handwave dropping the damaged stuff into the recycler and letting the armo-mat reconstitute the fibers into newer tighter panels.
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